Vitrify a parquet: the five rules to know
You have just put a floor and you hesitate on the type of finish to apply? Vitrification is the most efficient and the most durable. It beautifies and protects the floor from stains, scratches and wear caused by traffic. All you have to do is choose the desired finish, a natural finish, invisible, for satin-finished, "ultra-matte" pieces ... Then equip yourself with the necessary tools and materials (vacuum cleaner, sanding equipment, microfibre roll) , etc.). Finally, arm yourself with patience and carefully follow the five steps to properly vitrify your floor. -> Also read> Buying guide: how to choose your parquet?
You do not have to be a skilled handyman to glaze a floor, and the price of the floor is not higher than the oil. The wax costs less, but it requires a passage per week, while the glazer is definitive! Finally, the vitrification of the floor is proving to be the fastest solution, while oiling and polishing take time to penetrate the product into the wood.
No less than five rules govern the vitrification process: parquet preparation, sanding, treatment and dyeing, hardening wood and the application of the glazer.
Read also> How to maintain a vitrified floor?
1. Vitrify a parquet: the preparation
Put on a mask and protective gloves before vitrifying a floor.
Dust the parquet by vacuuming.
If your floor is old, it must be refurbished.
- If it is an old polished floor, use a scourer to remove the old wax.
- If stains remain, apply a wood stain remover.
- On nailed parquet, check that there are no nails left. If not, hammer them in or remove them with a nail chaser.
- If holes or cracks appear, re-seal them to the woodpulp.
- Replace damaged blades, if necessary.
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2. Vitrify a parquet: sanding
Hide the skirting boards with masking tape.
Pass the sander in three passes: the first with a large grain, the second with a medium grain and the third with fine grain.
For each of these steps, follow these steps.
- Pass the sander following the fibers of the wood and progressing by zone. Finish with the corner sander at the corners and flush with baseboards.
- Dust vacuum.
- Put a cloth moistened with water or alcohol to burn.
The alcohol to burn is indispensable in the case of woods with strong tannin (oak, chestnut).
3. Vitrify a parquet floor: treatment and dyeing
If you see galleries in the wood, treat with an insecticide and a fungicide by passing two layers.
If you want to stain your parquet, you have to apply a stain. Start testing in an inconspicuous corner to see if the shade is right for you. Then apply the dye.
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4. Vitrifying a parquet: hardening wood
It is necessary to use a fondur to make the wood more waterproof by blocking its pores and to harden its fibers.
Apply the fondur in the corners with a brush, then spalter in the direction of the blades on the whole of the room. Rub without pressing too much for an even look. Dust off the vacuum.
Renew the operation to deposit a second layer of fade.
For a hard wood such as oak or some exotic woods, replace the fondur with an underlay in the same way.
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5. The application of the glazer
If you have underfloor heating, cut it 24 hours before you pass the glazer. The room temperature should be 15-20 ° C.
Apply the glazer to the spalter, then roll evenly and in the direction of the wood fibers. Let dry 24 hours.
Peel (sand lightly) the parquet and dust off it
Pass a second coat of vitrification.
If necessary, you can even pass a third layer of glazer, after ginning and dusting.
The parquet floor supports light traffic after 12 hours. Take the necessary precautions: do not cover the floor with a tarpaulin or carpet and do not move heavy furniture.
The vitrified parquet reaches its final hardness after 5 to 8 days.
Also to read> Which type of parquet to choose: laminate, solid or engineered?